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Anita's Restaurant
704 N. Piedras St.El Paso, TX
(915) 566-1645
Anita's Restaurant opened in 1990 in the heart of the Five Points neighborhood in central El Paso.
Although it has maintained a loyal customer base throughout the years, many people do not even
know it exists. A prominent sign on North Piedras Street points to Anita's Bar, adjacent to the
restaurant. With little noticeable signs in front, though, Anita's Restaurant seems to get most of its
business through word of mouth and perhaps through a few people who see it while passing by.
Anita's is in good company, though, with other restaurants that serve the type of quality Mexican
food that keeps local people coming back.
Parking is not allowed on Piedras Street, but the alley beside the restaurant and the lot behind
the building usually provide adequate space. The restaurant has about a dozen tables, and I think
many who eat here walk from surrounding businesses or neighborhoods. If a restaurant attains the
status of a "local institution," as Anita's has, most people do not care whether it has much ambiance
as long as the food is good. Actually, the fact that Anita's could be classified as a "hole in the wall"
is part of its attraction as a local eatery. Prices are reasonable, the restaurant is clean, and people
do not have to pay for mariachi bands or expensive buildings that house some of the restaurants
that are more popular with tourists.
The lunch crowd at Anita's starts around 11:00 at gets rather thin after 1:00 p.m. Patrons can get
anything from a snack to a full meal, but most people order a comida corrida style meal
with soup and a plate with a choice of a main item, beans, and rice. Most restaurants offer comida
corrida for lunch at a reduced price with a limited choice of items. At Anita's, patrons have the
choice of anything the restaurant serves and the prices are just as cheap as other places that only
offer one or two items.
All customers are given complimentary Chips to begin the meal. I would not be tempted
to fill up on them except that the red chile Salsa is so good the chips seem to disappear quite
quickly.
Since Anita's opened I have always associated it with one of the best versions of Caldo de Res
in the city. I probably should say its beef and vegetable soup is one of the best in the country, but I
haven't sampled enough versions in other cities to really make this statement with authority. I do know,
though, that it rivals the one at Jalisco Cafe, the restaurant that I consider to serve the best caldo.
The caldo de res at Anita's contains large chunks of roast beef, fresh vegetables, and rice at the
bottom (some other restaurants serve rice on the side that you put in the soup yourself). The good points
about Anita's caldo are almost everything, with the flavor that I have come to expect with this bowl
of soup. The beef is a little fatty, and it is sometimes lacking in the green vegetables
that I prefer. In all essential aspects, though, the soups I have eaten recently have been as good as ever,
and in terms of taste are a good representation of this classic El Paso dish.
The home made Corn Tortillas are another essential aspect of the caldo experience, and
go perfectly with the soup. Flour tortillas may also be requested, and these are good as well, but I think
the corn ones go best.
Although I used to go to Anita's regularly, it has been more difficult in recent years because my work
is no longer in the downtown area. I will have to start fresh in reviewing individual dishes as I am able to
make visits now that I am writing reviews. I do know, though, that the food served here is about as
authentic as you can get anywhere.
Chile Verde is an example of the excellent choices that are available. I was really surprised
that it was even better than I remembered, with basic ingredients that are combined in such a way that
this could also be described as a classic version of an El Paso style dish. Chunks of green chile
provide spice, while potato and tomato tone it down a bit. Anita's makes both chile verde and
chile colorado with beef, and I would say it is a good cut. Anita's also avoids overdoing the
chile verde with spices and additives, trying to keep as natural a flavor as possible. Personally
I think this is what makes it so good, and provides a flavor so close to home made this is probably the
best you can do in a restaurant.
The chile verde pictured in the photo is a small serving, but it is usually served on a plate with rice
and beans. Patrons can get servings as large or as small as they wish-- the restaurant is not trying to
make extra money by serving oversized platters of food.
The use of vegetable oil in the cooking and the limited use of additives are deliberate attempts to
make the food more healthy than was typical in the "old style" El Paso cooking. Beef is used instead of
pork in many of the dishes for the same reason, although pork is available in some dishes for people
who really want to order it.
Lemonade is served, and I thought it was sweet but good. Sweet foods or drinks seem to
quench the fire from hot chiles such as the innocent looking but potent green chiles in the chile verde.
I think Anita's has one of the least expensive home made lemonades in El Paso, so I can forgive it for
being a little weak on the lemon flavor. There should be plenty of limes on the table if you want to add
some extra tartness.
I really enjoy the fact that eating here is almost like eating at home. You can order what you want and
you are not limited to the plates the restaurant wants to serve. The food is healthy, and rather than tasting
bland, I think it is better than at most other restaurants. Certainly the caldo has been one of the best
parts of my meals.
Anita's Restaurant is small, and separate from the bar
Caldo de Res with Home Made Tortillas
This chile verde is smaller than the typical order, but just as good
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 23
Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $
Hours: Until 3 p.m. Mon.-Sat.
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Smoking: No Smoking
Chile Index: |
Most Recent Visit
Feb. 13, 2008
Number of Visits: 10+
Best Item
Caldo de Res
Special Ratings
Caldo de Res:
Chile Verde:
Chile Colorado:
Chips:
Salsa:
Lemonade: