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Bella Napoli (Closed)
6331 N. Mesa St.El Paso, TX
Bella Napoli was built when this portion of Mesa Street was more rural than urban, and the "red sauce" Italian
food served here has not seemed to change since the era when it became one of the most popular types
of dining destinations for American families. Bella Napoli has since faced increasing
competition not only from chain Italian restaurants, but from a number of other small family run operations
that I think better typify the various styles of food that would be served in Italy. Bella Napoli seems
to have maintained its popularity over the years, though, not only because the quality has stayed
consistent, but also because of the personal attention customers receive.
With the restaurant set back from Mesa, it could easily be missed unless you look for the sign next to the
street. The restaurant itself has the feeling of an Italian villa with a fountain in front and an outdoor patio in
back, creating the perfect setting for Italian "comfort food." Live music is frequently performed, always being
the type of classical or soft music that contributes to an intimate and leisurely dining experience.
Bella Napoli's staple red sauce sometimes seems very bland and nondescript except when served on my
favorite dish here, the Eggplant Parmigiana. Somehow you don't even think you are eating a vegetable
with this dish-- it almost has the texture of veal or chicken. The slices of parmesan cheese on top may be a key
to the dish being so enjoyable. I would judge the eggplant to be better at Michelino's, but the one at Bella
Napoli is quite unique, and the combination of the eggplant, sauce, and cheese make it one of the most
enjoyable ones to eat. Eggplant is something I do not enjoy eating except when it is cooked just right and
preferably disguised to taste like something else, and I think that is what Bella Napoli has done. Even
though I have been disappointed by some other dishes here, I always enjoy the eggplant.
There are no other entrées that I like quite as much as the eggplant parmigiana, but if you order anything
else I would recommend getting something that comes in a half order, since full orders are huge (and expensive).
The Manicotti and other non-meat items are probably average to above average for Italian
restaurants. Whatever magic Bella Napoli does to the eggplant does not seem to come through as much
with the manicotti.
Lasagna has been more enjoyable than some of the other pasta dishes. I am not completely
thrilled with the red sauce (I think I mentioned that already), and ordering the meat version does not really
improve the taste but it at least adds another element to the mixture of flavors that are served. The baked
pasta served in the lasagna, though, was actually surprisingly good after a long period in which I had
not ordered the dish. I know other restaurants serve better lasagna, but the one here is good if you want
something simple cooked correctly. Sometimes Bella Napoli offers nightly specials in which lasagna
or other dishes come at a lower price than a half order of eggplant or something else I would normally
order. When lasagna is on special, I certainly think it is worthwhile.
The Cheese Pizza lacks the variety and to some extent the flavor that I like for a dinner
entrée, but I do like it when it can be shared by other people as a supplement to the "regular" menu items.
This is the type of pizza I used to eat across the street from high school in which we would have to wash
our hands before returning to class to get the grease off our fingers. I mean all of this in a good sense, since
I certainly think Bella Napoli has one of the better versions of this type of pizza.
The House Salad uses the typical iceberg lettuce found in El Paso that varies in color from pale
green to a few darker leaves. The tomatoes also taste like the commercial variety, but at least they are
good enough that I usually eat them. The house dressing, though, is great, and I always try to get a salad
with my meal (the small salad is priced pretty reasonably when compared to other Italian restaurants). On
a recent visit the lettuce was crisp and fresh enough that I do not think any of it remained uneaten except
for the heart that got a little bit too crispy for me. Like much of the other food at Bella Napoli, the salad does
not represent fine dining, but it is very good.
I think many people go to Bella Napoli for the garlic bread, either consciously or unconsiously. These are
the kind of rolls with garlic butter smeared on them that make you think you are being served a cheap
substitute for real Italian bread until you notice at the end of the meal that the rolls have magically disappeared.
Like much of the other food, I think one of the keys to the bread's enjoyability is not so much any gourmet
ingredients as the fact that they are usually cooked just right without being either burned or cold.
Bella Napoli reminds me of some of the "old style" ethnic and Tex-Mex restaurants which I have enjoyed
since I was growing up. I know there is probably more authentic food to be found at some of the
newer restaurants, but I like the way the old favorites do things, and I really do not want them to change
very much. I do not have much advice for Bella Napoli except to keep doing what they are doing.
Bella Napoli's famous eggplant parmigiana
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 18
Cuisine: Italian
Cost: $$$
Hours: Dinner Wed.-Fri.; All day Sat. & Sun.
Accessible: Yes
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Beer, Wine
Most Recent Visit
Feb. 21, 2010
Number of Visits: 10+
Best Items
Eggplant Parmigiana, Pizza, Salad
Special Ratings
Eggplant Parmigiana:
Lasagna:
Manicotti:
Pizza: cheese
Salad: house dressing