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Casa Jurado (Closed)
226 Cincinnati Ave.El Paso, TX
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Casa Jurado is not only an El Paso institution, its Kern Place location is in one of the city's most
interesting neighborhoods. Surrounded by several bars, coffee houses, and other restaurants, Casa
Jurado itself is decorated with bright colors to convey the feeling of festivity felt throughout Cincinnati
Avenue.
Casa Jurado gained a reputation through the years for the quality of its food, and I believe one secret
to its success was the constant attention by its long-time owner. When Henry sold the restaurant in
2004, however, the big question became whether the quality could be maintained. I have now made
several visits after the new owner took over, and the result seems to be that "Casa J" is as good or
better than ever.
Enchiladas Norteñas are probably the best indication of the food quality at Casa Jurado.
This was my favorite dish at the old Casa J., and has always been one of the best dishes at the Doniphan
(Casa Jurado West) location. They are characterized by a distinctive dark red sauce with a well-balance
chile flavor that has been one of my favorite enchilada dishes in El Paso (partly because the enchiladas
are stacked instead of rolled). When I tried them shortly after the changeover they had too much garlic
and had been transformed into a bright red sauce that was little different from countless restaurants in
the city (and I was very disappointed). Based on recent experiences at the restaurant, though,
it seems as if they are back to cooking them the way Henry used to do it. In fact, I thought they
had all the balanced flavor of Henry's enchiladas with a decrease in the amount of cumin flavor,
making them even better than before (and they are now among my favorite in El Paso).
I believe the Salsa has been purposely changed to a more fresh and light flavor, and in my
opinion this is also a positive move. I thought it was still pretty heavy on the comino but not as
noticeably as at Casa Jurado West. I have had a recent taste comparison at Casa Jurado West,
and I preferred the one here.
The Chips at Casa Jurado seemed thicker, fresher, and with a less noticeable corn oil
taste than at Casa Jurado West (which is now the only reference point I have for trying to remember
the details of the food at the "old" Casa J.). Again, any changes that have been made seem to have
been on the positive side.
Casa Jurado in Kern Place seemed to experience some growing pains when it first changed
owners, and this is one reason I originally thought it had gone downhill. One example was when they
had run out of green sauce for the enchiladas because they had more customers than anticipated that
day, and the sauce was only made in small batches that would not be prepared again until the next
morning (so I had to order something else). I think, though, that many issues I experienced initially
have now been fixed.
My recent experience with Chicken Flautas was quite good, and convinced me that Casa
Jurado is once again among the best Mexican restaurants in the border city. If you have ever had a
"perfect" order of flautas where the shell, guacamole, and side dishes (beans and rice) were done just
right, you will know what the ones at Casa Jurado were like. The flute shaped taquitos were
small, without much meat filling, but this is the classic way of serving them. From the freshness of the
lettuce served on the side to the refried beans, everything seemed the same as some of the excellent
flautas served in Ysleta, Socorro, and San Elizario, where I think the best examples of the dish are
normally found.
At the old Casa J. the Chile Relleno was one of the best items (the melted cheese inside was
the best part of it). I have not tried the relleno recently, but it is likely still the same.
Chicken Mole used to be very good. I have not ordered it at the "new " Casa Jurado, but
if Casa Jurado West is any indication, both CJ restaurants may have the best mole in the city.
Salpicón has always been the restaurant's specialty--a type of beef salad that is served
cold. It actually reminds me somewhat of the laap salad served at Thai and Lao restaurants.
One of the best dishes at Casa J. used to be an order of Green Enchiladas. Although they
came with the typical puréed green chile, a waiter who knew me
suggested that the cook add green chile strips on top to make them spicier. This may cost extra, but
I think it would be so worth it.
Rice is still excellent and is one of the few examples in El Paso where the cooks seem to
take as much care to cook them properly and keep them heated as they do with the main dishes.
Refried Beans are better than before. They will also serve whole beans on request, but
the refried beans here are some of the best I have tried.
One of the toppings for flautas is Guacamole, which is also quite a good dish in itself. The
one here is fresh and flavorful, and one of the best in El Paso.
The flauta plate comes with Chile con Queso on the side, or this can also be ordered as an appetizer.
I thought the one here was fresh and flavorful, and was the type of queso that could only be dreamed about in
most Oklahoma Mexican restaurants. The Tex-Mex restaurants in other parts of the country usually give a
comlimentary serving of something called "queso," but which is so far removed from the one served at Casa
Jurado I am not sure they are made with the same ingredients. A waiter told me the one here was made
with Velveeta (something I am pretty sure is used in the Tex-Mex restaurants), but mixed with Monterey Jack
cheese that I think gives the Casa J. queso its special flavor. Of course, the fresh chiles inside are also a
key ingredient.
I should also mention the fact that the Chips at Casa Jurado are thick and flavorful, and are
some of the best in the city. The ones at the "old" restaurant were good, but I do not remember them
being this good.
The Flan over the years has been one of the best I've eaten.
I am glad the new owner is taking a serious approach not only in maintaining the Jurado family
traditions, but also in making improvements that are noticeable. The original Casa Jurado was
definitely one of the best Mexican restaurants in the city. It has taken a while, but I now place
the "new" Casa Jurado among the city's best. At least when it comes to traditional, El Paso style
border cuisine, I consider the Kern Place Casa Jurado to be my favorite.
Enchiladas norteñas with an egg on top
Flautas with guacamole and chile con queso
Chips and salsa
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 24
Cuisine: Mexican El Paso
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Accessible: Yes
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Full Bar
Chile Index: |
Most Recent Visit
Feb. 10, 2010
Number of Visits: 10+
Best Items
Enchiladas Norteñas, Spinach Enchiladas, Chile con Queso, Salpicón, Chiles Rellenos,
Chicken Mole, Flautas
Special Ratings
Enchiladas Norteñas:
Spinach Enchiladas:
Chiles Rellenos:
Chicken Mole:
Flautas:
Rice:
Beans:
Chips:
Salsa: