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Great American Land & Cattle Co.
701 S. Mesa Hills Dr.El Paso, TX
(915) 585-7873
Great American Land & Cattle Company has been around for a number of years serving steaks
that may be comparable to the ones at the more well-known Cattleman's Steakhouse at Indian Cliffs,
east of the city. Great American's claim to fame is probably its signature seasoning that is used on
all steaks and is available for sale to take home. Equally important, though, is the quality of the
steaks that makes this a "destination" restaurant for El Paso, rivaling some of the well-known
Mexican restaurants in popularity.
Great American Land & Cattle Company still operates the original restaurant on Alabama Street, as
well as a newer restaurant near Cohen Stadium. Great American Steakburger Steakhouse on
Yarbrough Drive has been open for a number of years, and is the third location of the chain. Several
other locations operate under variations of the same name but with independent ownership, including
the one featured in this review and the restaurant on Interstate 10 in Vinton.
Although I had formed opinions of the Great American food based on numerous experiences at the
other branches, the fact that the independently owned restaurants have the freedom to serve their own
style of food necessitates that this review be based solely on experiences at the Mesa Hills location.
I believe the steaks on Mesa Hills to be as good as at the other locations, if not better, so it is a good
representation of the Great American chain. There is probably not much difference between
any of the Great American restaurants, at least in terms of quality. The differences seem to be in
"extra" items certain restaurants add to their menu.
I used to look forward to the times I could make the long drive to Fabens to eat at Cattleman's
Steakhouse, and I thought the steaks there had a better flavor of natural beef with little need to add
salt or other seasonings. This was in contrast to the Great American on Alabama Street (near my
home) that seemed to add so much seasoning I could hardly taste the steak. Great American has
a famous (and probably patended) seasoning that is delicious, but the Mesa Hills location is the
first one I have tried that did not apply an excessive amount on the steak. I think this change is
probably one that has been made throughout the Great American chain, and one that probably
fits into what the public wants. Nevertheless, one of the reasons I like the Mesa Hills restaurant is
that it is the first Great American I have tried that really used the proper amount of seasoning.
One of the employees told me the bad news about the Mesa Hills location is that they do not
have a liquor license, although the restaurant has a bar from the days when it was the west side
Griggs Restaurant. Great American does serve beer and wine, but I have always thought ice tea
was a more appropriate drink with this type of food.
Several cuts of steak are served, with a medium sized selection compared to most steak houses.
One feature I like about Great American is that smaller cuts are available. Personally I have to go
on a night I am really hungry to be able to handle one of the small steaks.
New York Strip Steak is one of the cuts that comes in a small version (10 oz.). As may be
evident from the photo, this was a thick steak that had very little in the way of fat. This was the only
cut that the menu described as "USDA Aged Choice Beef." Using some of the well regarded
steak restaurants in Oklahoma as my benchmark, the steak here was slightly gristly, but Great
American served a well cooked steak with just about as much flavor as would be expected.
The steak here was also considerably less expensive than some of the ones in Oklahoma.
The key here was the value-- this was pretty close to high end quality served at mid-range prices.
The seasoning that in years past (and at the original restaurant) was the main reason I avoided
Great American in favor of the long trek to Cattleman's, now has become a flavor
enhancer instead of a detriment.
Great American has long highlighted their Steakburger, even using this as the theme to
the restaurant on Yarbrough Drive. This is a thick, juicy, ground steak that provides both a smaller
and less expensive meal for those times when customers do not want to order a steak. Great
American takes great pride in the quality of the meat served, and deservedly so. The meat patty
was so thick that this really amounted to a steak as much as a burger. Great American offers a
choice of American cheese or Monterey Jack, but I have not tried the American cheese. I
remember thinking that the burger was not cooked quite the way I ordered it, but I am more
particular about burgers than steaks (so perhaps the steaks were not cooked quite right
either, but I did not notice).
I ordered a steakburger with green chile and cheese partly to compare with
the one at Jaxon's, and partly because the green chile cheeseburger has become a highly sought
delicacy along the Rio Grande, with the joy of discovering a good one equal to or greater than the
excitement in experiencing a great enchilada, chile relleno, or carne adovada. The green chile and
cheese were more flavor enhancers than the main point of the burger, and in fact I think this burger
would have been just about as good with mustard, barbecue sauce, or a number of different
toppings. The green chile and cheese were fresh, but somehow I enjoyed the ones used at
Jaxon's more (Jaxon's also includes mushrooms on the Tampico sandwich). The green chile
was moderately spicy, and had all the flavor and characteristics of fresh chile from the Hatch
or Mesilla Valley farming regions of southern New Mexico. Somehow, though, this just did not
have the type of flavor that excites me in a green chile cheeseburger.
In 2008 the Mesa Hills restaurant followed the lead of Great American in Albuquerque by offering
Wagyu beef, raised only by approved ranchers following strict guidelines (and hopefully tasting the
same as the Japanese Kobe beef). I found out the steak only comes in a large size, so I ordered
the less expensive Kobe Steakburger.
Gil's Thrilling Blog
gave an excellent report about the Wagyu beef at the Albuquerque Great American Steakhouse,
and also noted the Duke City branch's closing in 2008. The high regard Gil had for this restaurant
is one that I share for the one in El Paso.
My reaction to the beef patty was not quite as positive as the one Gil seemed to have for the
Wagyu steak (this is quite understandable considering that I am comparing hamburger to steak).
Nevertheless, this
was a very good burger, and it included the enjoyment of knowing that I was eating the best
quality beef (including the guildelines followed to keep the cattle off of hormones and antibiotics).
I saw a group of people enjoying the Kobe steak, and it looked as if it would be a worthwhile
experience. The size and price of it made it seem that the steak should be shared by at least
two or three persons, but I do not fault people who want to keep it to themselves.
Great American recommends that the Kobe burger be cooked no more than medium, and also
has guidelines for the steak to provide maximum flavor. I think with beef this good they do not want to
cook all the juice out of it.
The Steak Fries that came with the burger were quite good, with Great American's style
of seasoning used for enhanced flavor.
One of the highlights of all the Great American restaurants is the side dishes that come with the steaks
and other main dishes. The pineapple flavored Cole Slaw is probably the one generally considered
to be the best side dish, and I will have to say that it has always been outstanding even when I have been
somewhat disappointed with the main course. The cole slaw has a creamy sauce that the pineapple
accents perfectly. The cabbage was fresh and tender as always, and everything came together so
naturally it made me wonder why other restaurants do not produce their versions with as good a
result as the one here.
Another side dish has the nondescript name Great American Beans that are actually similar
to ranch beans served at other restaurants. Actually I think just about any barbecue joint would be quite
proud serving beans that tasted like the ones at Great American. I could not decide whether I liked the
beans or the cole slaw better, but that has been the dilemma over the years at the other Great American
locations.
The Baked Potato was excellent, but probably not a standout item like the other side dishes.
Although I enjoyed the baked potato, I thought the steak fries (served with the steakburgers) were just
about as good.
The Dinner Roll that came with the meal was as fresh and flavorful as the other items. All of
these side dishes toghether probably equaled the steak as the most enjoyable part of the meal. This is
good news since Great American has quite a few menu choices other than the steaks, so there is plenty
of reason to try it on multiple occasions.
The Wagyu beef may be an experiement to see if customers are willing to pay the high prices for
better quality. I was happy with the steaks that were served before, but I can understand that many
people would appreciate a step up. Even with the regular steaks, though, in my opinion Great
American is the best steakhouse in El Paso.
New York Strip and all the fixings
Great American Steakburger with Green Chile and Cheese
Steakburger made with Wagyu beef
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 24
Cuisine: Steaks
Cost: $$$
Hours: Open Daily
Accessible: Yes
Additional Locations: 7600 Alabama St.,
9800 Gateway North, 1145 George Dieter Dr., 2220 N. Yarbrough Dr., 600 Valley Chile Rd. (Vinton)
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Beer and Wine
Most Recent Visit
Apr. 30, 2008
Number of Visits: 3
Best Items
New York Strip, Cole Slaw, Beans
Special Ratings
New York Strip:
Steakburger:
Wagyu Steakburger:
Baked Potato:
Cole Slaw:
Beans:
Restaurant Web Site
Great American