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Peppe's Restaurant & Cantina
6761 Doniphan Dr.Canutillo, TX
(915) 877-2152
Perhaps my favorite long time El Paso restaurant was Griggs Restaurant, located on Doniphan Drive
about a mile north of Country Club Road. There was a branch on the east side near the airport,
and a short lived location on Mesa Hills, but the west side restaurant always seemed to be the
Griggs family's "baby" until they retired and the franchise was taken over by new owners. The
Griggs family came back to reopen the Doniphan Drive restaurant after the new owners had
decided to concentrate on the airport location and the Doniphan location had closed. For a short
time until my last visit to Griggs Family Restaurant on Doniphan in 2003, I thought the food was
as good as I had remembered on my early visits. In any case I received quite a bit of mail from
people who agreed with me that they really enjoyed the "old" Griggs Restaurant, but found the
east side location to be inconsistent.
I heard that the east side Griggs Restaurant closed sometime around 2008, and unfortunately
it was related to the health of the owner. This led to an agreement between the owners and a
long time chef at the west side Griggs Restaurant that the latter could open his own restaurant
using the Griggs family recipes. Thus I am happy to report that Peppe's Restaurant & Cantina
is now open in Canutillo, Texas, about two miles north of where the original Griggs Restaurant
was located.
Both of the former Griggs Restaurants were probably as famous for their antique furniture and
artifacts as for the food, and both were in spacious buildings that resembled haciendas. Peppe's
Restaurant is in a small storefront location in a strip mall, with only a few of the antiques from
Griggs Restaurant on display. The food, though, is the same as at Griggs, with just about every
menu item being copied from Griggs' menu. Even though the "old" Griggs became inconsistent
near the end, Peppe's has succeeded in replicating many of my best memories of this El Paso
institution.
With Peppe's Restaurant being small and the owners always present, I think the food will
keep the consistency I found at the old Doniphan location of Griggs Restaurant. Of course the
advantage of using recipes that are as old as the ones from the Griggs family is that they are
time tested, but the disadvantage is that there will not be much innovation in the food. For me,
I am happy to go with something I know and have enjoyed most of my life (since I was eating
at Griggs with my relatives before I moved to El Paso). There are some things at Peppe's I am
unable to find in other restaurants, such as the combinations of dishes offered on the combination
plates. Even though I would not claim that every dish at Peppe's is the best I have ever tasted,
for me it is the ultimate "comfort food," offering food that I really enjoy and that matches my early
memories of it.
I know that other restaurants have good Chile con Queso, but I had to try it at Peppe's
just to remember what it was like when I had it a Griggs, offereing one of the first and best
examples I had experienced. The cheese at Peppe's is a little thicker than is usually found,
offering the reason people will either like it or dislike it here (depending on your viewpoint), but I
am glad it is more of a solid than a liquid. The green chiles were fresh and flavorful, but not of the
ultra hot variety.
The Combo Plate #3 on the dinner menu is a good way to sample some of the best dishes
(there are also some lunch combinations that I particularly enjoy). Green Enchiladas may
be the best item at Peppe's, using New Mexico chiles for a very flavorful blend of chile, cheese,
tomato, and tortilla (but not as spicy as most of the ones in Las Cruces).
There is no question in my mind that the Chile Relleno is the other "best dish" at
Peppe's (although I think one of the things that makes Peppe's unique is the combination of items
that can be ordered together, making the sum sometimes more enjoyable than the individual
parts). Peppe's serves the chiles rellenos New Mexico style, with no sauce on top. The
chile, cheese, and batter are all much better than average, making it unnecessary to add a
sauce (and in my mind it would be an adulteration of the dish to do so). The trick of the cheese
is to cook it just right, and I had quite a few at the old east side Griggs that were either too
runny or too hard, leading to an increasing infequency of my
visits. I think Peppe's, though, has it just right.
Another notable item is the Chile con Carne, made with pork and red chile. This was
one of the spicier items served, and I particularly like it on one of the lunch combinations where
it is served on a crispy tortilla shell. As one of the main items on the dinner plate (shown in the
picture), I thought the meat was better quality than I had remembered from before, but I did not
like the chile as much. Even though Peppe's has its own unique food that may not be fair to
compare to anyone else's, in this case I have had enough red chile in New Mexico to have
developed opinions about the ones I like the best. Just because Peppe's does not have my
favorite, though, does not mean I enjoy it any less.
The Rolled Taco is an item I often substitute because I am usually not a big fan of
ground beef, but the one at Peppe's is quite good. It tasted as if it were mixed with potato, and
everything was simple but prepared well.
I think the best way to order Green Enchiladas is flat, since they seem to have more
chile and more flavor (single enchiladas are usually served rolled, as it is on the combination plate).
Stacked (flat) enchiladas seem to have more sauce, and I think this is the best way to enjoy one
of the best versions of this dish I have tried in the El Paso area.
Red Enchiladas are also quite good, and are prepared New Mexico style (with more
of the chile flavor coming through than in the El Paso style enchiladas). These enchiladas are
spicier than the green ones, but mild compared to ones found in Las Cruces or northern New
Mexico. Even though I like red enchiladas better than green in about ninety percent of New
Mexico style restaurants, the green ones are still my favorite at Peppe's. To me the red
enchiladas here are mainly good on a combination plate with other items, but when ordering
them alone it is good to ask for an egg on top (as shown in the photo).
The Rice is excellent, with a good mixture of flavors. Its moisture content indicated
that it had not been sitting around for a long time.
Peppe's serves whole beans by default. It is really hard to judge these compared to others,
since preparing them is pretty straightforward. I prefer these, though, to just about any refried
beans that are served in El Paso.
The Slaw is notable for being one of the best, although slaw in El Paso Mexican
restaurants is still somewhat of a novelty, and there are few other examples with which to
compare it.
Peppe's charges extra for a Sopaipilla, as did Griggs Restaurant. Although some
restaurants serve sopaipillas for dessert, it is traditional with New Mexican food to eat the
sopaipilla with the meal, especially if the food it spicy enough that a bread would be desired to cut
the fire. In this case, though, I thought the sopaipilla was too thin and crumbly to be eaten
successfully with the meal (especially if you like to use it to dip in the chile). It is good for dessert,
though.
Other desserts are also available, such as Flan. I do not know if this is one of the items
from the Griggs family recipes, but I was more impressed with it than the sopaipilla as a dessert.
One of the little things that I particularly enjoy about Peppe's, is the fresh Corn
Tortillas that are served with the meal on request (that really substitute for ordering a
sopaipilla with the meal). The tortillas are made fresh daily at a nearby tortilla factory, and I think
are excellent.
The Griggs family not only operated Griggs Restaurant for years, but other relatives owned La
Posta in Mesilla, New Mexico and El Pinto in Albuquerque. In my mind, though, Griggs always had
the truest New Mexican style flavor (even though the other restaurants were using the same recipes),
and Peppe's has not changed what the Griggs family was doing. I think there is a reason a large
number of people in El Paso were loyal to Griggs Restaurant, and these people now have a place
to find the same food.
This is the Griggs Restaurant menu with a new name
Half order of chile con queso
Combo plate with chile con carne, green enchilada, rolled taco, chile relleno, rice, beans, and slaw
Green enchiladas are New Mexico style
Red enchiladas with an egg on top
Sopaipilla for dessert
Flan
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 22
Cuisine: Mexican New Mexico
Cost: $$
Cooking Oil: Vegetable
Accessible: Yes
Smoking: No Smoking
Chile Index: |
Most Recent Visit
Jul. 30, 2010
Number of Visits: 3
Best Items
Green Enchiladas, Chiles Rellenos, Slaw
Special Ratings
Green Enchiladas:
Red Enchiladas:
Chiles Rellenos:
Chile con Carne:
Rolled Taco:
Rice:
Slaw:
Chile con Queso:
Chips:
Salsa:
Flan:
Sopaipilla: