okgourmet.com Home of Steve's Restaurant Reviews
Puerto Vallarta Mexican Grill (Closed)
7200 N. Mesa St.El Paso, TX
Just about every Mexican style seafood restaurant in El Paso serves the type of fish that is found on the
Mexican Pacific coast, with fish tacos and shrimp cocktails being some of the most popular items.
The city of Puerto Vallarta is due south of El Paso, and this seaport has exerted a great influence
throughout northern Mexico and adjacent areas of the United States, including exports of its seafood
throughout the inland regions.
Puerto Vallarta Mexican Grill is appropriately named, being an inland version of the authentic Mexican
style seafood restaurants found on the coast. Everything from the fish fillets (with all the choices including
veracruzano, breaded, and achiote) to the extras (fish ceviche and either chowder or fish soup served with
every meal) reminds one of being in Mexico. While I have not been to the city of Puerto Vallarta myself,
the fish I have eaten on the Mexican gulf coast has been one of the biggest treats of my life.
Even though I was impressed with the way Puerto Vallarta Grill prepared the fish, the biggest difference
between here and either of the Mexican coasts is the freshness of the fish. I have never had fish in El Paso
that compares with the fresh catches available along the Gulf of Mexico, and it would be unfair to expect
anything like this in a desert city. Instead, I just have to see if the fish is reasonably fresh and if a good
preparation makes up for a slight degredation that will inevitably occur in the transportation process.
In the case of Puerto Vallarta Grill, the freshness is about as much as can be expected, and is about
equal to other restaurants in the city. The problem I have is with the pollack that is used for both the fillets
and the fish tacos. This is most likely a variety of fish that transports well, but it has never been one of my
choices for good fish. Even though I like just about everything else about this restaurant, I frankly do not
care much for the pollack that is served.
If you do order the Fish Tacos, they have the benefit of being cooked in white wine (as are the
fillets). The fish tacos are quite substantial, and come with good condiments, but there are several restaurants
in which I prefer the tacos.
When it is available, Puerto Vallarta Grill offers other types of fish, and sometimes at just about the same
price. One example is a Tilapia Mojarra I ordered with ranchero sauce made with tomatoes and
green chiles. When I looked up "mojarra" it was described as yellowfin, or generally as a small fish not more
than 16 inches in length. The mojarra at Puerto Vallarta Grill was small enough for an individual meal,
and I was very pleased that they served the whole fish as I had experienced on the Gulf coast. While I do not
usually eat the skin, I find tilapia to be much more flavorful when it is served as a whole fish. This fish was a
bit dry, but it did not taste "fishy," so overall I thought it was very good.
Another popular whole fish is the Mojarra al Mojo de Ajo, covered with roasted garlic.
I enjoyed this one more than the one with ranchero sauce, and I do not know if the fish was actually
better or if it just tasted better with the garlic. In any case, I thought this was one of the better versions of
tilapia served in El Paso.
The mashed potatoes served with the whole fish were very good, and the salad and rice were
acceptable. Other side dishes are available but I enjoyed the ones I had to the point that I probably
would not want to change them.
I have always liked the bread at Puerto Vallarta Grill, but recently they have been serving such a small
amount that it is barely enough to last through the meal.
I have not tried the shrimp but it seems to be the most popular item sold, and is likely the specialty
of the restaurant.
The restaurant serves a complimentary Ceviche before the meal that is one of the reasons I
enjoy eating here even though some of the fish may not be memorable. Even when my experience with
the pollack discouraged me from coming back for an extended period of time, the prospect of having
free ceviche and a very good fish soup made Puerto Vallarta much more attractive. Now that I have
had good experiences with the tilapia, the restaurant is even better.
At one time I thought the Fish Soup was some of the best I've had outside of Mexico. Recently
it has not impressed me the same way, but I still thought it was quite good.
Clam chowder is available instead of the fish soup, and was also good. It does not compare
with the clam chowder served in Boston, but nothing outside of New England does (that I have
experienced so far).
The Chips are very thick (Mexican style), and with the Salsas served (an excellent green
sauce) it sets the mood for the rest of the meal. Other than when I have ordered tilapia, the appetizers
have been the main reason for coming to Puerto Vallarta Grill.
Fresh squeezed Lemonade is served that I think is a perfect drink to go with seafood. This
lemonade is a little thinner and less sweet than is normally found in American restaurants, and there is a
vast difference between most lemonades and the agua natural drinks served in Mexican
restaurants that perpare it the traditional way. Puerto Vallarta makes it the way I think it should be done,
and it is among the best in El Paso (although I would include any restaurant that prepares it properly on
the same list).
The restaurant serves tacos and tortas, but otherwise is purely fish and shrimp. They follow the motto: stick
with one thing and do it well. I do not care for the pollack they use as the "default" fish, but some of the other
choices are quite good. I would say they really do not need to add anything else to the menu. I just hope
they keep serving the mojarra, which is listed as a special on what seems to be a semi-permanent sign.
Mojarra with ranchero sauce
Mojarra al mojo de ajo
Complimentary fish soup, ceviche, salsa, chips, and bread
Chips, ceviche, clam chowder, and lemonade
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 20
Cuisine: Mexican Seafood
Cost: $$
Hours: Closed Sun.
Accessible: Yes
Additional Location: 1611 Montana Ave.
Smoking: No Smoking
Special Features: Complimentary Ceviche
| Chile Index: | 
|
Most Recent Visit
Mar. 19, 2008
Number of Visits: 7
Best Items
Mojarra, Fish Soup, Ceviche, Chips and Salsa, Bread
Special Ratings
Mojarra: 
ajo
Mojarra: 
veracruzano
Fish Tacos: 
Fish Soup:
Fish Ceviche:
Lemonade:
Chips:
Salsa: