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Explanation of Mexican Restaurant Reviews
Regional Mexican Food Styles
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Mexican Restaurant Reviews
on this web site include the following information:
The Cooking Oil used
is mainly a question with New Mexican and El Paso style Mexican food. Traditionally both use
lard, but I would say since 1980 many restaurants have switched to vegetable oil (probably
because of customer preferences). It is still not uncommon to find restaurants that use vegetable
oil in the enchiladas but lard in the refried beans. Such restaurants are identified with "vegetable
oil" in the restaurant details. I generally rely on restaurant owners to inform me about which
cooking oil is used.
A Chile Index
is used for Mexican restaurant reviews on this web site, and indicates the
spiciness of the food. For U.S. border style restaurants this refers primarily to the enchiladas,
chile relleno, or other foods that tend to be spicy. Much authentic Mexican food is not particularly
spicy, so the "chile index" indicates how spicy it will be if you want it to be (such as by ordering
one of the particularly spicy sauces that typically go on meat or fish). Like most things on this web
site it is for informational purposes, and is subjective. Most restaurants will prepare food that is
less spicy than the rating indicates, and the purpose of this scale is to be a guide for
"chileheads" like me who generally like the food spicy.
Chile Index
Regional Styles of Mexican Food
are identified on this web site when possible, and restaurants are generally rated against other
restaurants within the same category. I generally can find delicious food within any Mexican
food style, if prepared well, and it is not my intent to downgrade U.S. style Mexican food because
it is not "real" Mexican or food from northern Mexico because it is not Oaxacan or other types
of Mexican food considered "gourmet."
I have identified five types of regional Mexican food in the border states of the U.S., and
food from Mexico is identified by the state in which it originates. Generally if a restaurant owner
comes from a certain state in Mexico and advertises the food as being "authentic," this is how
I will identify the food (although it will then be held to the standard of other food, if any, that I have
tried from that state). I have been to northern and central Mexico, and I do have some knowledge
of authentic Mexican food (in case I think the claims of the food being authentic are not accurate).
Although subjective, the true test of any Mexican restaurant is the quality of the food. I have
found a very few number of Tex-Mex restaurants that were truly good (mostly in San Antonio and
Austin), and I do not downgrade a restaurant because it is Tex-Mex or another U.S. style
rather than true Mexican. To me, though, the best restaurants in Mexico are far better than most
Tex-Mex restaurants, and restaurants are given ratings accordingly.
Cal. California Style. There is not a great distinction between California and Arizona style.
I describe California style as consisting largely of salads (taco salad, etc.), olives, sour cream, etc. Also
"healthy" Mexican food (such as at Baja Fresh). California style has more variety than the other styles, and
commonly serves a variety of fish, meats, tacos, etc. Flour tortillas are common. NM New Mexico Style. Uses New Mexico red or green chiles. The chile has a strong,
pure chile taste. Whole pinto beans are often served instead of refried. A dish unique to N.M. is stuffed
sopaipillas, or "sopaipillas compuestas" (a large sopaipilla stuffed with different combinations of
meat, beans, lettuce & tomato, and chile). N.M. also has a version of posole (hominy) that I have not
found other places: served with chile and often times pork. I think a N.M. meal would not be complete
without sopaipillas served with honey. Usually this is the dessert (served without sugar or cinammon
as is often used in areas outside New Mexico). In Albuquerque it is common to
serve sopaipillas with the meal (they are excellent with red chile, and the purpose of sopaipillas with
honey is to kill the fire in your mouth from eating the hot chile). I must also mention the mole dishes
served in N.M. style food (usually chicken and mole). The best way to describe mole is that it is a
kind of chocolate sauce, although this really doesn't do it justice, and trying mole dishes served in
different restaurants is almost an exercise in itself, such as trying to compare certain good Thai dishes.
Mole is sometimes found in the other regions, particularly Arizona. I have found the best examples of
New Mexican food in Española, Albuquerque, and Santa Fe, in that order (Santa Fe and to a lesser
extent Albuquerque have a lot of "tourist" restaurants that do not typify the NM style very well). The food
served in southern New Mexico is almost a distinct style, but I am listing both types as "New Mexico"
style as long as it has the distinct NM characteristics. The differences in the styles include the following: Son. Sonora or Arizona Style. Found primarily in Arizona. Less spicy than N.M. style.
Uses flour tortillas. Has red and green chile, but is not as strong as in New Mexico. Uses less cheese
than the other styles. Carne seca is one of the distinctive dishes. Tex. Tex-Mex Style. Typical dish is beef or cheese enchilada topped by chile
con carne (a brown sauce with ground beef). The chile con carne or other enchilada sauce is usually
brown and uses comino (cumin) instead of red or green chile as in the N.M. food. Served with refried
beans and fried rice (cooked with tomatoes and spices such as garlic). I will have to make an
editorial comment and say that generally Tex-Mex food is all the same, and there is nothing about it
that I like as well as the other styles except one thing-- it has the best chile con queso (a cheese
sauce with chile in it). Sometimes restaurants serve cheese tacos, which is really nothing more than
chile con queso poured on a tortilla. My rating for Tex-Mex restaurants is generally based on their
freshness and the quality of the cheese, particularly the chile con queso. Around Austin and San
Antonio there are a few exceptional Tex-Mex restaurants that stand well above the mediocrity
typically associated with Tex-Mex food (at least in my mind). In my experience the really good
Tex-Mex food has enchiladas that derive their flavor primarily from the cheese rather than the chile
con carne sauce on top, tacos that are very greasy that may even be to the point of producing a pool
of liquid on the plate as you pick it up (either ground beef or chicken enchiladas), and tamales that
rival the ones in New Mexico. San Antonio also has its own style of enchiladas, with the tortilla soaked
in a sauce that turns it red.
Chih. Chihuahua Style. I think certain restaurants deserve their own category since they
typify the food that is found across the border in Ciudad Juárez and the rest of Chihuahua State in Mexico.
The food in Juárez is slightly
different than the food in El Paso, and I think it can be described best as "home made" food, or even
"street food," rather than "restaurant" food. "Juárez style" also describes restaurants that serve only
one type of food (such as tacos, flautas, etc.) or a limited selection of foods, unless these foods come
specifically from another state in Mexico besides Chihuahua.
The comida corrida is a Juárez institution, and one of the distinguishing features of this type of
restaurant. Another feature is the use of thicker sauce in the enchiladas, almost as if flour is added.
Chihuahua food tends to use white cheese, being home to a large Mennonite colony which produces
much of the cheese used in the state. Chiles rellenos always have a sauce on top and the relleno
itself tends to be very greasy. Seafood is popular but, being in the desert, the freshest fish is usually
not available-- instead people usually like to eat shrimp. Chihuahua steaks and meat dishes such as
milanesa used to be very good but with the greater presence of American-style ranches and feed lot
operations, in my opinion the quality has gone downhill.
Other States State Name or Abbreviation Listed. If the restaurant owner is from
a certain state in Mexico and/or serves food specifically from that state, the state will be listed.
In Mexico, like the United States, there has been much migration from one state to another, and
different food styles have come with it. In my opinion cities such as Mexico City do not have their
own food style as much as they are the recipient of food styles from the surrounding states.
Gen. General Style. Food styles that I cannot identify, but most probably come
from the Mexican interior. May use
red chile instead of the brown found in Tex-Mex. Usually serves tacos and enchiladas, because this is
what is expected from American customers, although this is not the primary diet found in Mexico. For
the purpose of this survey "general style" is simply food that does not have the pronounced regional
characteristics of the the border styles (Cal., Ariz, N.M., Texas).
Spiciness of the enchiladas and/or other chile sauce.
Very Hot.
Probably too hot, unless you're used to it.
Hot.
Hot, as found in the more authentic restaurants in Albuquerque, Santa Fe,
Las Cruces, and El Paso. (To me, this is just right).
Medium Hot.
Has a little bit of a bite.
Medium.
A little bit of flavor, but not much spiciness.
Mild.
Pretty much like tomato sauce.
U. S. Regional Mexican Food Styles
Mexican Regional Food Styles
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ENCHILADAS : New Mexican, El Paso, and Mexican style red enchiladas |