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A view of the restaurant when it had previous ownersOKLAHOMA CITY, OK--Lotus Mandarin |
Location: 5928 N.W. 38th St., Oklahoma City, OK (Warr Acres) |
Date of Review: Jun. 2012
Additional Review: Aug. 2013 Restaurant Status: Closed |
It may be hard for me to be objective about the Lotus Mandarin. When I began to explore the world
of Chinese food in the early 1980's Lotus Mandarin, tucked in a strip shopping center in Warr Acres,
became one of my favorite hangouts. At the time I was trying to get relief from the allergies I had
developed while growing up in Oklahoma by eating spicy Chinese food, since it seemed that no
Mexican restaurant dared serve authentic chiles to the state's uninitiated clientele.
Lotus Mandarin was one of the few Chinese places that got close to the spiciness level I was
seeking, but I also came to appreciate the flavors being offered. One of my favorites was the
Szechuan sauce that had so much of my respect and admiration that I still use it as a benchmark
for measuring others.
Even though Lotus Mandarin has gone through a change of ownership and cooks since the early
years, it remains almost the same as I remember it. It even uses the same Corningware plates
that I thought helped preserve the temperature of some of my favorite dishes. It offers a buffet
(that I do not remember being served in the 1980's), but the extensive menu is just about the same
as it always has been.
The Szechuan sauce is still great, and can be served with chicken or pork. The Szechuan
Shredded Pork still has the delicious sweet and fiery sauce, shredded bamboo shoots, and
other vegetables in just the right balance and offsetting flavors to make this as much a work of
culinary art as just something to eat. If Lotus Mandarin has one dish that makes it worth a visit, I
think this is it. I know other restaurants have better Szechuan style food, but I have not found
any that I think serve a superior version of this particular dish.
Although not stated on the menu, the shredded pork can be modified to Szechuan Chicken
with the same sauce and vegetables. Although the garlic flavored sauce was made to go with pork,
the chicken has a good flavor as well.
One word of caution, though, is that the cooks by default will make the Szechuan sauce quite
sweet unless the customer requests otherwise. When I have requested that the Szechuan chicken
or pork be cooked "Chinese style," it had all the same ingredients but without the almost overly
sweet component to the sauce that is served by default. I was told the non-sweet version is the
way Chinese cooks would make it for themselves, and I thought the flavor approached the ones
found in restaurants that specialize in Sichuanese cuisine. Looking back, it may have been a more
"sweet" version that I remember from the 1980's (and which is still served unless otherwise
requested), but the "authentic" version seemed to give more of the type of flavor I would expect
from traditional Chinese food.
I do think the Szechuan shredded pork has changed from the original version by no longer
including strips of black fungus (mushrooms are used instead), but I like everything else about
it (including the price, since you can order a small plate if you are not very hungry).
Twice Cooked Pork is really the second dish I have ordered at Lotus Mandarin that
makes me classify it as an "authentic" Sichuan style restaurant. This dish comes with a plum
sauce that when done right is one of my favorites. The one here was sweet, but not as sweet as
many others I have tried. It also had a sour component that I thought was very good. The flavor
was top notch, and I thought the dish was excellent. The nappa cabbage and other vegetables
were also very good, and like the other dishes here I thought I got excellent and authentic
Chinese food for a lower price than at just about any other restaurant in the city that serves items
of similar quality.
For chicken dishes the Chicken Cheng Tu Style is a good choice. The menu
describes this as an "exotic dish for Chinese food lovers." The
vegetables (broccoli, snow peas, and mushrooms) did not seem very exotic to me, but the sauce
was good and I liked the fact that it had a good quantity of vegetables. Although this dish originated
in the Szechuan region of China, I would say it did not quite bring across the flavor I found in the
Szechuan shredded chicken dish.
The Kung Po Chicken was kind of mixed in the way I would rate it. The sauce was
good, and I thought it had a very good blend of flavors. It had a sweetness to it but it was not
too much. The vegetables included celery and bamboo shoots, which I liked. It was missing
the whole dried red peppers that most restaurants serve with this dish. The chicken was good,
but the dish was not to the point that I would say this is one of the best items at the restaurant.
I still think Dot Wo on Portland or in Edmond has the best kung pao chicken in town.
The Hot and Sour Soup is worth the nominal extra charge (but it comes free with lunch
specials). It would be in the running for my favorite in OKC except for the fact that it is pre-made
with MSG. Most of the time the soup is filled with the requisite strips of pork, black fungus, and
bamboo shoots. The MSG has never actually given me a reaction, it is just the idea that I
could be affected by the MSG that keeps me from ordering the soup on occasion.
The Sizzling Rice Soup was about average.
Most dinners are offered in a smaller portion, and this offers a very good value without
getting the buffet (food in the buffet has MSG, so I would not order it anyway).
Most dishes seem to be "Americanized" by default, such as the Szechuan sauce coming with
added sugar, but some of the food can be made "Chinese style" by request. I find that the owner
is very helpful in directing me to the authentic dishes.
In contrast to the early Lotus Mandarin, almost everything cooked by the current owners has
been rather low on the spice scale for Sichuan restaurants. I am sure this can be remedied by adding
chile from the jars or asking them to add it in the kitchen, and I am usually pleased enough with the
flavor that I do not need it to be more spicy. Still, though, this is to let readers know that if you want
the food to be spicy here you have to ask for it.
Forget the divey appearance (this restaurant is a great example of post-WW II strip shopping
center Oklahoma modern). The good food and extremely attentive service will more than make
up for it. More and more I am also appreciating the fact that I can eat here at a very modest price.
Small serving of Szechuan shredded pork
Small serving of twice cooked pork
Chicken Cheng Tu Style
Small serving of kung po chicken
Lotus Mandarin's hot and sour soup is one of the best in OKC
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 21
Cuisine: Chinese
Cost: $
Hours: Open Daily except Sat. lunch
Accessible: Yes
Tea: Jasmine (bags)
MSG: Yes
Smoking: No Smoking
Buffet: Lunch Sun.-Fri.
Most Recent Visit
May 31, 2012
Number of Visits: 10+
Best Items
Szechuan Shredded Pork, Twice Cooked Pork, Hot and Sour Soup
Special Ratings
Szechuan Shredded Pork:
Twice Cooked Pork:
Chicken Cheng Tu Style:
Kung Po Chicken:
Sizzling Rice Soup:
Hot and Sour Soup: