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Hefner Grill
9201 E. Lake Hefner ParkwayOklahoma City, OK
(405) 748-6113
Located on the east shore of Lake Hefner, Hefner Grill makes the most of Oklahoma's
frequently spectacular sunsets visible across the lake through the restaurant's giant plate glass
windows. Originally I thought the view was a fringe benefit to the good food here, but now I think
they have raised the prices to the point that you have to pay for the view.
The restaurant seems to have made a gradual transformation from the time when it was called
Pearl's Lakeside Seafood Grill, but now appears to be independent from Pearl's. Lakeside
Fish Grill, which replaced Pearl's, kept the seafood theme and some of the Cajun style dishes
that were served at Pearl's. The latest restaurant, Hefner Grill, was mostly just a name change,
because I think the owners and management are the same. However, some of the fish plates
I have tried have not been as good as at the previous Lakeside Fish Grill, while other dishes on
the menu have turned it from a restaurant that emphasized seafood into a general American
style restaurant. Overall the restaurant may be as good as before, but it is just not a place I
count on for better than average fish as I did before.
Shrimp was probably the most popular dish at Pearl's, and this was supposed to be
the place to get catfish. On a visit soon after the change from Pearl's the waitress told me
that the salmon was farm raised, but all other fish were caught in the wild. Recent visits have
demonstrated that the shrimp is still very good, but I cannot say the same thing about some
of the other fish I have ordered. The fish and chips have been good on recent trips, and the
common theme seems to be that anything fried will still be as good as it was previously.
Although I did not try it, some dining companions indicated that the sandwiches were good,
and I have enjoyed salads, soups, and other items.
The restaurant is located off of Lake Hefner Parkway (State Highway 74) at the Britton Road exit.
There is a cluster of restaurants along the lake shore, and all are known for being "noisy" (this is a
code word signifying that they probably serve almost as much alcohol as food). Hefner Grill has
a bar, but I have not found it to contribute substantially to the noise level of the restaurant.
As in other Oklahoma City restaurants, the patio has become the de facto smoking
area for the restaurant since state law has all but eliminated indoor smoking. The views, though,
are just as good from inside the restaurant if you want to avoid the smoke, as I do.
The dinner seafood entrées used to come with a House Salad, but now they cost
$3 extra. This is actually one of the best parts of the meal, though, and may be worth the price.
The lettuce is fresh, and the dressings are made from scratch. I thought the Cajun style
vinagrette dressing was flavorful and fresh, but others have been equally good.
Pearl's served a seafood gumbo that had a dark color, and was filled with so much
rice, seafood, and other ingredients it was easier to eat with a fork than a spoon. I ordered a
bowl of Gumbo from the lunch menu at Hefner Grill that was different, but still good.
Hefner Grill's gumbo had a mixture of meats with the chicken being the best, and the sausage
and shrimp being about average. The broth seemed to be lighter than at Pearl's, and it was
medium spicy (not as spicy as Cajun style). Overall, though, it was quite good, and was one
of the best dishes I have tried at Hefner Grill.
Other soups are available, such as Maryland crab bisque.
The Southwestern Bean Soup, made with white beans, was flavorful, nutritious, and
very good quality. It was the soup of the day (served on Tuesdays), and is probably representative
of the quality of soups served on other days of the week.
Several sandwiches are served, and they are not cheap but they are good quality. The Tuna
Blackened Sandwich made a good casual meal for a moderate appetite. However, I no longer
found the tuna sandwich on the menu after the change from Lakeside Grill to Hefner Grill (so
this may or may not be something they will still prepare).
At the original Pearl's I had Pecan Crusted Trout that was split open and filleted. The skin
was left on the bottom to keep it moist, and the top was deep fried. The cooking method was called
"light deep frying" because it was only fried for a short time, leaving the crust crispy but the fish moist as
if it were baked. This dish was quite a unique and delicious experience. I do not want to leave the
impression that the fish was top quality, because it did have to be flown in. The cooking style used
at Pearl's, however, might well compete with some of the best fish houses in the country. I certainly
thought the pecan crust was first rate, and the fish itself was fresh enough to be free of the telltale
"fishy" taste found at so many restaurants.
After the change to Lakeside Grill I found the trout to be more greasy than before with the fish not
being as flavorful. It still did not taste "fishy," though, so it was still a good dish. I am not sure if any
changes have been made at Hefner Grill.
Fried Shrimp has been the standout dinner I have tried, with a fresh shrimp and a good tasting
crust. My standard for judging shrimp is based on trips to Galveston, Texas, and for years Oklahoma
had nothing that approached the fresh catches found along the Gulf. These days, though, the shrimp
is getting a lot closer to tasting fresh, and Hefner Grill has some of the best. This has been true
at the previous restaurants (Pearl's and Lakeside Grill) as well.
I am not crazy about Shrimp Cocktail, but the one at Hefner Grill seemed fairly good,
with large shrimp and a flavorful sauce.
In the past I have driven all over Washington, Oregon, and northern California trying to find good
fish and chips (as well as sampling several places in London), so this gives an idea how picky I am
about this dish. Of course Willy's Fish and Chips at Hefner Grill did not compare with ones I
have had in other places, but they were surprisingly good. The tilapia at Lakeside Grill may have
been slightly better, but the dish at Hefner Grill was still enjoyable (I wrote in my notes that it was
made with pollack, but the menu says haddock, so I do not know which is correct). In any case
the batter was good, and I skipped the sauces in favor of my favorite condiment with this dish, malt
vinegar (which thankfully was available).
Of course, most restaurants in Oklahoma are pretty expert at making french fries, so as expected
the "chips" part of the dish was quite good.
Even though salmon is my favorite fish, I am even more reluctant to try it outside of the
Pacific Northwest than the fish and chips. It would have been a mistake, though, to pass up the
Cedar Plank Salmon at Lakeside Fish Grill. I try to be objective in writing these reviews, and my
objective judgment is that shrimp has always been the best dish at this restaurant. Subjectively,
though, I am such a big fan of salmon (when it is done right) that this turned out to be a standout dish
at Lakeside Grill.
I was a little less impressed with at at Hefner Grill, though, because the fish did not taste as
fresh and was too much on the "white" side (as oppsed to the pink or red colors found with most
Pacific Northwest salmon). The maple glazed sauce may also be different from the one
described at Lakeside Fish Grill as soy sesame seed glaze with wasabi. In any case I still liked
it, but not as much as before.
So far I have had pretty good luck ordering the non-fish items, such as the Bone In Pork Chop.
According to the menu this was "mustard and herb crusted, hardwood grilled, with crimini mushroom
caper sauce." I don't even know what half of this means, but I know that it was very good. The
garlic mashed potatoes were very good as well, and the seasonal vegetables were about as I
would expect at most restaurants.
Many of the side dishes seemed to be the weakest link at Pearl's, but less so at Lakeside
and Hefner Grill. The Cole Slaw at Hefner Grill, for instance, was one of the best I have tried
in Oklahoma City.
I will have to say that overall I thought Lakeside Fish Grill was the best of the restaurants that have
been in this location, and Hefner Grill has made several changes that do not seem to be for the
better. I have enjoyed Hefner Grill more, though, by avoiding grilled seafood dishes, and
either getting the ones that are fried or going to other items from the menu. Sadly, though, I no
longer think of this restaurant as one of the best places in town for seafood.
View of Hefner Grill's outdoor patio
House salad
Bowl of gumbo served on the lunch menu
Southwestern bean soup
Tuna sandwich
Pecan crusted trout with squash rockefeller
Dinner portion of fried shrimp
Haddock fish and chips
Cedar plank salmon at Lakeside Grill (but still served at Hefner Grill)
Bone in pork chop
View of Lake Hefner
My Comments in a Nutshell |
What I like most:
|
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 21
Cuisine: American
Cost: $$$
Hours: Open Daily
Accessible: Yes
Smoking: No Smoking (except on outdoor patio)
Alcohol: Beer, Wine, Margaritas
Special Features: Lunch specials, Sunday brunch
Most Recent Visit
Feb. 20, 2012
Number of Visits: 9
Best Items
Fried Shrimp, Pork Chop, Cole Slaw
Special Ratings
Fried Shrimp:
Cedar Plank Salmon:
Pecan Crusted Trout:
Fish and Chips:
Pork Chop:
Southwestern Bean Soup:
Crab Cakes:
Cole Slaw:
Garlic Mashed Potatoes:
Squash Rockefeller:
Salad:
Restaurant Web Site
Hefner Grill