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Tamazul (Closed)
5820 N. Classen Blvd.Oklahoma City, OK
Note: As of 2014 Tamazul has become a totally vegan restaurant, and is no longer serving the meat dishes described in this review. Some review web sites indicate that the restaurant is as good as ever, and that the quality of the food is still at the level I experienced. |
It was not until long after my numerous trips to Mexico in my younger years that I realized the
value of making a conscious effort to sample the different food that was there instead of just
eating whatever was convenient and which would allow me the most time for sightseeing. My
passion for food exploration came later, but it largely came out of my love for Mexican food.
It seemed that most types of Mexican food were finding their way into U.S. restaurants
anyway, so that I would have ample time to sample different Mexican dishes. I can also say
that as a whole, I found Mexican food to be better in the United States than in Mexico itself--
this was nowhere more evident than the Mexican restaurants in El Paso compared to their
counterparts in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico.
The type of food I was mostly trying, though, was from street vendors or what could be
euphemistically called "budget restaurants." The higher class, or alta cocina restaurants,
though, are a different story. These were almost without fail my best experiences in Mexico, but
seem to be less successfully exported to the United States.
I have not been able to try some of the more well known Mexican restaurants in the United
States, such as the Rick Bayless restaurants in Chicago (who, of course, is an Oklahoma City
native). In fact, possibly the best Mexican food I have had in the United States was at the now
closed Adobe Grill in Oklahoma
City, a restaurant specializing in food from the Mexican state of Oaxaca. In terms of flavor, Adobe
Grill rivaled any of the best Mexican food I have had anywhere. Adobe Grill's consistent
problems with execution, though, kept me from giving it a rating as high as I would have liked
to give it, though. One very good example was when I ordered a combination plate and asked
for everything to be "Mexican style." They brought it out with everything "Tex-Mex" style (the
menu had two versions of most dishes because they figured most people in Oklahoma would
want the Tex-Mex version). When they brought the food to the table I told them they had made a
mistake and that I had not ordered this style of food they were only willing to change one or two
items, and I largely went home disappointed (although their Tex-Mex food was good enough
to merit the score of 23 I assigned to the restaurant, and this in itself was some of the best I have
had anywhere).
I think more than anything this example points out the problem many restaurants in the U.S.
have about appealing to their customers. I wanted the "authentic" Mexican food because I had
tried it before, but many restaurants think they have to appeal to a broader customer base. I do
not want to speak for Tamazul, one of Oklahoma City's newest Mexican restaurants, but I think
their traditionally inspired food will have a wide appeal to people who love Mexican food or just
good food in general. The fact that Tamazul even opened (and has been quite busy) is a
testament to me that Oklahoma City may be ready for different types of restaurants than the ones
that were able to be successful in the past.
My initial impression of Tamazul was that it may not quite be at the same level as some of
the best dishes I tried at Adobe Grill, but I still have quite a few things to try at Tamazul (and I hope
to be able to do so). The execution at Tamazul, though, seems to be flawless, and unfortunately
this was something I could not say about Adobe Grill or some other Mexican restaurants that
otherwise would have been great. Another thing I can say about Tamazul is that their
tacos al pastor were able to top what previously had been my favorite
Mexican dish in Oklahoma City-- the tacos al pastor at Abel's. Tamazul is more expensive
than Abel's, but it seems to be worth it.
Tamazul has what may be the best chips and salsa in Oklahoma City. The blue corn
chips were excellent, and I loved the fact that they had no noticeable oil taste (corn oil or
otherwise). The Salsa was freshly made, had an excellent flavor, and had just the right
spiciness. Actually it reminded me a lot of the salsa that is served in El Paso in its freshness
and with the amount of flavor it had (and this is something too often missing in Mexican
restaurants where the customer base is less accustomed to Mexican food).
Tamazul has a long list of appetizers on the menu, although after my first visit I suspect that
most people will get quite full on the regular food without ordering an appetizer. The appetizer
I tried was the Shrimp Cocktail, something that actually would have made a good meal if
you like shrimp. I am actually not a big fan of shrimp cocktail, and I only sampled this one, so it
is probably best if I do not try to give it a rating. The shrimp was very good, though, and to me
the best part was that it tasted very mild and very fresh. I was not as impressed with the sauce,
which I thought was a little spicy and did not taste very "traditional" (the shrimp cocktails in the
El Paso Mexican restaurants usually have sauces that taste very much like traditional American
shrimp cocktail sauce). Tamazul may be trying to be more "modern" than "traditional" in its
interpretation of the food, but this sauce was not very much like anything I have tasted in either
the U.S. or in Mexico.
Moving on to something I really liked, though, the Taco al Pastor was the best thing
I tried at Tamazul. In fact, this may be the best Mexican dish I have had anywhere in Oklahoma
City. This meat was not only very good quality, but it was so flavorful I thought they must have
discovered a new process of adding extra juices and spices while cooking the pork. I love the
tacos al pastor at Abel's, but the one at Tamazul had more meat, the meat tasted better, and it
was juicier and not as dry as the ones at Abel's sometimes seem to be.
This was a dish I did not order but only sampled, and my thinking was that I could get
very good tacos al pastor at other restaurants. What I discovered, though, was the the ones at
other restaurants are not this good (although I will have to see how conistent they are over time).
The Chicken Quesadilla was another dish I did not order but sampled. I thought
everything was excellent, including the flavor. For this one, though, I thought maybe the ones at
Abel's had a better flavor (although it would be hard for anyone to have better chicken than
Tamazul serves). I will give this another try before making a definite pronouncement, but
it did seem that other restaurants had quesadillas that were just as good.
The Chile Relleno was one of the "Platas Fuertes," meant for big appetites (but
actually the small plates can also be quite filling if you get two or three of them). The thing
that was interesting about the chile relleno (and I assume the other large plates) is that there
were so many components. In this case, the chile relleno itself, the filling, and the outer crust
could all be analyzed and described separately (although at this point I do not have enough
knowledge about Interior Style Mexican food to do so). The menu gives the following
description: "Chile Relleno" (the traditional style large chile that is the main component),
"Quinoa" (a traditional South American vegetable which was served on the side), "Black Beans"
(used as a filling inside the chile relleno), "Walnuts" (used for the crust of the relleno),
"Queso Oaxaca" (served inside the relleno), and "Tomato-Chipotle" (a delicious and medium
spicy sauce served on the plate but which can be used to pour on top of the chile relleno as
desired).
For me it was so different from other chiles rellenos I have tried that I am not sure this is even
the correct name for it, but this was mainly because of the crust. The crust was crunchy and was
a little bit bland without the sauce, but of course there was enough sauce on the plate to mix with
every bite I took (and I enjoyed every bite I took).
As far as not liking the flavor as much as at the now-closed Adobe Grill, I think that may
change in time, especially after I try some more things. I certainly think the tacos al pastor
at Tamazul are at least as good if not better than anything Adobe Grill served.
The thing I would most caution about Tamazul is that it seems to be quite small, and was
full when I went on a weeknight (I can imagine what it would be like on weekends). They do have
an outdoor patio, though, which serves somewhat as an overflow area (although I think there are
very few days in Oklahoma when I would really want to eat outdoors).
On the other hand, I do hope people continue to support restaurants such as this one that
give us greater dining options than existed in the past.
Tamazul's kitchen (in open view of the dining room) with the taco al pastor meat on a skewer
Blue chips, and Tamazul's delicious salsa
Shrimp cocktail is an appetizer, but is almost a meal in itself
The taco al pastor is quite filling for a single taco
Chicken quesadilla
Chile relleno is one of the "Platas Fuertes"
RESTAURANT DETAILS
RATING: 24
Cuisine: Mexican Interior
Cost: $$$
Hours: Open Daily except Sun. lunch
Accessible: Yes
Smoking: No Smoking
Alcohol: Beer, Wine
Special Features: Outdoor patio
Chile Index: |
Most Recent Visit
Jul. 24, 2013
Number of Visits: 1
Best Items
Tacos al Pastor, Salsa
Special Ratings
Tacos al Pastor:
Chicken Quesadilla:
Chile Relleno:
Chips: Blue corn
Salsa:
RELATED ARTICLES |
Jul. 26, 2013 : Tamazul  New Review |